, at five a man who unlocked the building and admitted me. Happy I entered the warm waiting room. However, it took half an hour until the Switch opens, and I could buy for me and my bike a ticket.
Then I pushed my little donkey in the belly of the ferry, where it was fastened with a rope to some metal rods and I went to the upper floor, where passengers stayed.
Exhausted, I allowed myself to one of the Polsterbaenke fall where I Hindo first before me and not the large group of Japanese tourists could not seem to mind. I just enjoyed the softness of the seat and the warmth of the morning sun shining through the window on my face.
Later I even managed to rouse myself and to talk with some of the Japanese, who took the same photos (on which I, of course, uebernaechtigt as I was, and still with sunburn very bad section) and gave me some tips for my stay on the island. Tents on camp sites was probably right actually possible. I was looking forward to sleeping at last legal somewhere, and the tent the next morning not to have to break down the same again, because I wanted to spend the whole weekend there.
The sun was still sleeping when we reached Rishiri and the sky had not illuminated. A nice day promised to werden.Das sea to my right, I went along the coast on the shortest path to the recommended Campsite. The shortest way turned out, however, as much as 15 miles, through the wind moved a bit again. (No wonder, when one must constantly push)
However I do today are lucky. held after the first half of the trail next to me suddenly a big van and the driver asked anxiously if everything was all right with me. I said yes and asked how far it was up to my goal. But I did meet him the brochure and pointed to the little red dot that marked the the campground.
"About 20 minutes by bicycle" was the information. However, on the bike, which was simply not possible ... The man also seemed to think just now, because before I knew it, he had also been seized and heaved my bags along with the large trunk of his car. Then he made it clear that I should enter the front, he would go there myself.
The trip was really a pleasure! We sped so quickly and I felt like a queen. But I would have the place might not even found, because the road was labeled only in Japanese, and illustrated signs dei inaccurate. As it turned out, was my St. Martin with the owner of this place friendly and helped me clarify even all necessary action before he left.
I could pitch my tent for competitively priced 300 yen per night on an obvious laboriously from bamboo kept free juicy grass pitch. Besides the my yet another frog green tent stood there, the owner I could not see, however.
I wanted to call Natsumi, to clarify, if I could come back in a few days, but the apparatus in the "Office" ( A small vestibule in an even smaller hut) was defective and a tour of the site was unsuccessful.
When I returned to my tent was my neighbor now also present and sat drinking coffee and reading newspapers in front of a small shelter, where it was running water and some grill basin.
I asked him for a public phone (finally I could finally use "my Japanese" because he spoke no English) and he was now taking his cell phone, on the grounds that it would within Japan calls cost anything anyway. That was even nice. :) So I could
with Natsumi agree but add that I would come back in three days by train, bus and with a short stay with Claus. This was, fortunately, no problem ..
Then I talked to my helpful neighbors, Miyazaki-san, who had retired here and fished on Rishiri and picking flowers. We got on very well straight away and the evening of this Day, I spent dozing, reading, knitting and doing nothing, he even invited me to a wonderful Onsen, a hot mud pool with inside and outside, and then even to eat. At noon he had already asked me about my favorite food, seafood and shrimp if I may ... And since I had foolishly told him that was one of the things I absolutely wanted to try here in Hokkaido, means the consumption of a crab, as this island is especially known for it.
Well, this wish I had now been met, because without further ado, he ordered one that was as big as a Frisbee. As my father would have probably made it for me, he prepares the meat to me carefully. In some parts (particularly spoon the shell, which he had aufgedraengt me) but I had to overcome a bit to eat and I let out those who made the impression that the crab would be happy again before her death gekrebst again quiet little place. Then followed
still Fischbaellchen, grilled, self-caught fish, sashimi and tempura.
It cost me some trouble Miyazaki-san and convince the nice hostess from the fact that I was really, really tired. However, it was late, we returned to our tents. Here to Stars shone to hitherto unknown intensity and I felt comfortable bed hard.
The next morning I awoke before half past nine!
The following day began with breakfast, very comfortable san in the company of Miyazaki and his friends, including a bird watchers, who have determined the 80 had to be in a caravan near and lived with his white beard and glasses rather reminiscent of a Chinese. In the other it was a slightly younger man who was on vacation and Rishiri also lived in the village.
prepared leisurely I me my cereal, this time very well maintained at a table and chatted with the elders in green tea on birds. In particular, the cheeky crows that exist here in large numbers. One could not begin to feed them because then they called the same their whole relationship, or bring friends and you were not let go. Not to mention the fact that these animals can be very frightening, because they are quite large and have thick, sharp beaks. A special Kraehengattung does not "Krah, Krah," as we know it, but a sound that was reminiscent of the Japanese word for "good morning". "Ohaio, ohaio" it sounded so often over here to us. What kind polite birds.
took me ten-thirty with Miyazaki on the mountain. Well, actually, only a little way up, which the tip was still snowed heavily and we did not get far.
beginning, it was still on a nicely paved path slightly uphill. But gradually, this turned increasingly into a path that now and then recaptured the bamboo. So we beat us through the bushes and in some places we could have use a good machete.
was soon gone and the only path and we followed a narrow trail through the thicket. The forest was peaceful around us. Every now and then showed me my mountain guide a few flowers, trees or herbs, told me their names and what they were good. (Most data could eat, except the trees) it all machine to be in his element.
It was now a steep uphill and again there were spots where the snow was stubborn.
seemed after a while no longer Miyazaki to know where long he should go and he did piloted at a loss under tree roots through, across treacherous rivers, which were covered by snow and small steep slopes up where we had to climb hand over hand to the young trees that grew there.
discovered Eventually Miyazaki-san finally in the distance a hut on a hill, which, he claims, a guide to a road would have to be, which can lead us down again. In order to achieve this ominous
lodge, we had, however, a whole piece of the hard-won promotion back. This time over a wide field of snow, that would ascend to the safe and convenient been. Then us a river the next round was impossible. But apparently
plants was my friend does not think so and already held out for a suitable place for crossing.
"Not again," I thought, but time to protest was not me, because Miyazaki had already jumped over the stones to the other side, waiting for me there.
Although these stones were small, slippery and wobbly, and I even managed to dry on the other side. There was however already
us compared to the next hurdle. A steep slope that was, at least in sight, ran along the entire river and well five meters high. I had just realized this difficulty, as my companion was already halfway up. Luckily also grew many young trees or hanging branches down from bigger, so we could go up with us some trouble. For the last part gave me the amazingly articulated even retired his hand. (However, it is already in Japan at age 60 retirees)
alone I would never have thought to try that!
Soon after we came already on the road to their dubious existence I had feared all along, and they brought us back in less than an hour in the place.
has arrived at the campground I first treated to a coffee and we talked about my future plans. (This sounds easier than it was, because he only spoke Japanese and my language skills as EXCELLENT, I do not need anyone fool) However, I found out that it probably was a bus from Wakkanai to Sapporo, by far cheaper than the train, but was a bit slower. A bus terminal, where I could buy a ticket, it was probably in the little place just around the corner. However, Miyazaki-san told me to hurry, because today was Sunday and there would close the terminal earlier. (It was half five!) Are crazy, the Japanese ...
But in this case, their workaholic me be right.
We arranged to meet for six clock back at the campsite in order to start working together again in the onsen and then took us in different directions on the road. I was in the small town, he does it for another campground in the bushes.
Finding the terminal and buy the ticket was not complicated, I was almost born in a litter there ... A young Japanese woman who I had asked led me to bowing every few steps, constantly smiling and pointing with his hand the direction there.
The ticket cost 6,000 yen, by Japanese standards is very cheap.
was, however, that luxury is now my travel fund for Rishiri exhausted. I was left with just the necessary 3190 yen in cash to re-cross over by ferry.
So I had to Miyazaki-san to tell, unfortunately, he has to walk alone in the onsen, I'm not 500 yen for the entry more.
He was already packed with bags in front of my Tent and just waved impatiently. That was all right (daijoube, daijoube) and turned his steps already gene Street.
was how I invited a second time and when I clean and heated in the rest room was, where he was waiting for me, he bought also a soft ice cream with mango flavor!
And that's not all ...
ran their way back ahead of him, then stopped in front of a typical Japanese restaurant, and asked if it would be fine if he went there because he was hungry. Of course he can go like I said. I would also find itself back, thanked me again for the nice evening and waved him already half-bye.
He shook his head but very energetic and waved me into it. So I got
this evening also donated another meal ... (This time a big plate sushi)
I was quite embarrassed and did not know how I be able to drop him all the kindness ever ...
He seemed, however, nothing I expected and just laughed when I thanked him again and again.
Also this evening, was late again, as we have a trip to the nice little place made the previous day and visited his friend, the hostess. So I had when I fell on my air mattress for the first time set the alarm clock to the next morning so not to oversleep. (My bus ticket was only for a particular bus and to catch them, I had the first ferry at 8:30 Take clock.) I also had to pack a lot, unfortunately I tend to spread myself very much when I lived a little longer in one place and then it was also, the distances to 15 kilometers on port ...
I would however have to make do not worry because I woke up before my alarm clock, clock in at four in what would turn out later than luck.
The fact that the rain made me happy not just jump out of the tent, but after several attempts I managed to stick out my nose abzuschaetzen the true situation. It was drizzling a bit, but I could time my bike in the shelter of the dugout loaded.
was not until I was finished I bermerkte that my Donkey once again had a flat rear foot ...
about the lack of routine in the replacement of tires, I could not really complain now. Within minutes the tire was removed and I checked the hose. However, using a bucket full of water, the san-me Miyzaki had provided caring, I could not find a hole. He seemed to be completely wrong. Funny.
I do not know what he needed, as neither in fishing, or a flower press is required to my knowledge, an air pump, but I was of course happy that he owned a donkey, and together we made my back on the road.
Actually, I intended to break up as soon as possible because of strong wind again blew (Merkwuerdigerweise always from the wrong direction) and I did not miss the ferry. However, Miyazaki-san had while I was still busy with the re-loading my friend's wiry, a little breakfast with eggs, bread, homemade jam and coffee magic and seemed unwilling to let me go empty stomach. Much persuasion this was not necessary, because the coffee smelled really good ...
course, I reached the ship in time anyway. However, when I
in Wakkanai picked up my bike, which was nice for me as been pushed by board, I found it before with a flat rear wheel. Luckily I had some spare time would go to my bus. That would be enough to at least buy a new air pump can be. Unfortunately, it was
near the port a bike shop, just a motorcycle shop, but also because it offered a few bikes, I still useable entered the great workshop for me to ask for the required. Air pump they had indeed. Allerd these were not for sale. You would in any case have been too great since it is the variety in question, the one usually used to inflate big ugly animals swimming with goggle eyes in the most horrible color combinations.
But at least I was able to patch up the tire (this time with a truly professional circumstances, with proper water basin) in the workshop and one of the pumps to fill the tire . Borrow
On the way back I still allowed myself a latte and an apple turnover from a Conbini and sat down with this early lunch at the entrance of the Faherenterminals to wait for my bus.
The bus ride was strange.
Especially as we drove back the same route that I had dealt with the wheel. I felt everything would happen as a revue, as if someone had accidentally press to rewind a tape pressured. It was raining, which increases the comfort level on the one hand to sit in a warm, dry bus, on the other hand, the places left now all look very uncomfortable that I had experienced during my tour in some sunshine.
wanted so I do not remember it, So I took the time to write my diary ...
arrived in Sapporo, I spent two days at Claus, while found that I alarmed that the Ueberzugsrahmen my credit card me 500 € at its maximum had been erected, and so I could not withdraw more money, which explains the problem in Wakkanai. We succeeded, however, get me back to liquid, before I had to take the bus to Kimobetsu.
However, it is a pretty bad feeling when all of a machine described as "invalid". Almost as one Waehren without credit to the account no longer a human being and not really entitled to get around the city. Almost like an outcast ...
Mata ne
Kira
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